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Natural Dyestuffs (application)

The extracts contain the whole natural dyestuff complex of the plants. These dyestuffs could be found in the plants as aglycones or glycosides (in complex with sugars). The aglycones results from the glycosides in the life cycle of the plants. The aglycones are not good water soluble.

For the achievement of good results during the dyeing procedure, it is absolutely necessary to solve the aglycones completely. For the complete solution of these dyestuff should be used a aid, especially for Wau-Color and Mad-Color. The solution of the dyestuff is practicable in a small amount of warm water under addition of alkali. It result the water soluble Sodium salts of the dyestuffs. After the complete solution of the dyestuff, the dyeing process can be started. The NIG dyestuffs can be used for dyeing of different versions of textile materials like flock, comb, yarn, and plane constructions.

All of these dyestuffs are mordant dyestuffs (accept INDI-COLOR). That means, the dyeing process is a process of two steps. The step of mordanting and the dyeing step. For special colour nuances is a additional mordent after the dyeing step helpful.

The process of mordant

The mordents should be solve under stirring in hot water. The masses of the salts are depend on the mass of the textile material. Normally we recommend 10 - 25 % of Aluminium and 2-7,5 % Iron-II-sulfate. That means for 1 kg of the textile material should be used 100 g mordant.
The textile material will be put into the water, shortly run and than followed by the addition of mordant solution into the water (textile : water ratio 1:20 - 1:30). After this the mordant bath should be heated with a shift of 2 °C/min onto 98 °C (silk not over 70 °C). This temperature must be constant about 30 - 60 min and than the bath will be cooled with a shift of 2 °C/min on 70°C. Important for clear colors with high fastness` is the removing of mordant which is not fixed on the textile. That’s why after the mordant step the textiles must be rinse intensively.

The dyeing process

The extracts should be solved under addition of alkali in a small amount of warm water. Caution if NaOH will used as solution auxilary it is necessary to control the pH, because when pH is too high about longer time than the dyestuff could be damaged. After the complete solution of the dyestuff the pH should be shift on 5,5 – 6 for protein fibres, for cellulose fibres can use a pH of 7,5 – 8 for dyeing.

After the complete solution of the dyestuff it will be put into the dyeing bath. The pH must be controlled over the dyeing time and it is necessary to change it to the optimum depend on the fibres. For plane textile constructions we recommend a liquor ratio of 1:15 to 1: 35 (1kg textile in 15 to 35 l dyeing bath).

The best results could found on protein fibres (wool, silk) by the heating of the dyeing bath with a shift of 2 °C/min on a temperature off

• 98 °C for yellow colours -wool
• 70 °C for yellow colours - silk
• 80 °C for red colours - wool
• 70 °C for red colours - silk

The dyed textile materials must be cooled on 70 °C (2 °C/min) and than rinsed from warm to cold.

Through an additional mordant with iron salts (Iron-II-sulfate) after the dyeing step, colour nuances can be realized from olive-green on Weld or Persian berries or brown-red with Madder.

The solved mordant will be given in the cooled dyeing bath (40 °C) and than dyed 15 min on 40 °C. The dyeing bath will be drained off and the material rinsed from warm to cold.

Ledermuster - leather samples
Reseda - Weld
Ledermuster - leather samples
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